🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.